Talakadu – Shifting sands of time
A place lost in the shifting sands of time, shrouded in mystery and a curse which might have resulted in its current state, sounds interesting, doesn’t it?
When I first heard of Talakadu, a town which was buried under sand in the middle of a perfectly viable agricultural region, I waved it off as a figment of imagination. But then, on researching and talking to a few people, I realized it was true and decided to visit the place which is a spiritual journey for Shiva followers. The place has five temples of lord Shiva which and the opportunity to visit them together comes once in every 12 years.
The five temples are Sri Vaideshwara, Sri Maruleshwara, Sri Muduhuthore, Sri Arakeshwara and Sri Pathaleshwara.
Location and getting there
At about 185 km from Bangalore and 45 km from Mysore, in the state of Karnataka in India, Talakadu is a town situated on the left bank of river Kaveri. It is not only a place of archeological importance, but also a place of pilgrimage, surrounded by mysterious spreads of fine sand.
Access is easy by road and one can hire a cab from Bangalore or Mysore unless you have your own transport.
Myth or ecological phenomenon?
The biggest question which comes to people’s mind is, How did the place get buried under sand? The archaeological survey of India started excavating the site and surrounding region in 1991. Over this period they have unearthed over 30 temples ranging between the period 6th CE to 17th CE.
Documentation says that approximately from the 17th century the place started to get covered with sand inexplicably along the banks of river Kaveri. Over a period of 200 years, people gradually abandoned the town, and it got buried under sand dunes.
There is no conclusive evidence on what might have caused this phenomenon. The most refutable theory is mentioned in the ASI report on Talakadu released in 1992-93. It could have been an unintended result of a dam constructed by a minister of Vijaynagara empire in 1342 CE in the north of the city. The dam resulted in shallow waters in the river, exposing the sand collected over thousands of years in the river bed. The sun helped it dry, and the north-western winds carried it to the town.
Such extraordinary phenomena are usually a strong contender for myths. One version of the story here revolves around Alamelamma, wife of the Vijaynagara empires Viceroy King Tirumal of Srirangapatnam (place near Mysore). The Myth says that the queen committed suicide by drowning in the river kaveri near a place called Malangi to escape from the men of Mysores Raja Wodeyar 1 (reign 1578 -1617). They intended to steal the jewels of goddess Ranga Nayaki which were in the queen’s possession.
When dying, she uttered the curse –
“ Talakadu maralagali, Malangi maduvagali, Mysuru dhorege makkalilladhe hogali. ”
Which translates to –
“May Talakadu be submerged in sand, may Malangi become a whirlpool, and may the king of Mysuru be childless”
The whirlpool and shifting sands are real and originated around the same time associated with the myth. And surprisingly enough, the seven rulers of Mysore since the 17th century have been adopted sons.
I leave it to your imagination, which one to believe in, the dam or the curse:).
Best time to visit
Definitely winter, after October through to march. Summers can be a bit painful since the stone structures heat up and the place is surrounded by sand.
Food
There are quite a few local eateries in the town since it’s a popular tourist destination.
For photographers
Best lenses to carry – a wide angle, and one wide aperture prime to capture the architecture details.
You can combine Talakadu with Somnathpura famous for its classic Hoysala era Architecture. The two places are just 30-35 minutes away from each other by car.
