Incredible carvings at Somnathpura
Location and History
Somnathpura, located about 35 km off Mysore, is a classic example of Hoysala architecture, which developed under the influence of Hoysala empire during the 11th to 14th century. The architectural style which peaked during the 13th century was influenced by the social, cultural and political events of the period. Temples built prior to mid 12th century reflected a dominant western Chalukyan influence. Post Hoysala period, the temples showed a combination of Chalukyan as well as decorative examples of Hoysala craftsmanship.
The Hoysalas usually dedicated their temples to lord Vishnu or lord Shiva. Worshipers of Shiva are called Shaivas or lingayats while worshippers of lord Vishnu are called Vaishnavas. Though King Vishnuvardhana was a Vaishnava by faith, he ensured social and cultural harmony by constructing Shiva temples as well.
Chennakesava temple at Somnathpura was commissioned by Soma who was a Dandanayaka (commander) to the powerful king Narasimha III During 1268 C.E. It is a star shaped temple showcasing typical elements which are features of Hoysala architectural style. An ornate Mantapa, Vimana and meticulously carved reliefs on the exterior of the temple take you to an era bygone.
Around the Temple
The Temple opens to visitors around 9.30 a.m. Being only about 35 kms from Mysore it is a good idea to make the city your base and hire a taxi for a day to take you there and back. Have a hearty breakfast before you leave and carry some light brunch to ensure you do not run hungry once there. Somnathpura by itself is a small town and do not expect much in terms of food. But well, usually backpackers find their own spots where they can satiate their hunger. Also carry water if traveling during summer. For photographers reaching there on time becomes imperative to get the right light and beat the tourists, so starting early would be a good idea.
The first sighting of the temple doesn’t give away much, you see an entrance porch with a walled enclosure. The trikuta vimanas (three pyramidal roof towers) peek over the walls giving you a glimpse of what lies ahead. Once you walk in through the porch with tall lathe turned pillars, it’s a sight to behold. The Chennakesava temple is home to three shrines with its own vimanas. The northern sanctum houses the idol of lord Janardana while the southern sanctum is the abode of lord Venugopala. The Idol of lord Kesava which adorned the central hall is missing today, which is replaced by a replica.
Architecture
The temple is built on a Jagati (Platform) which can be accessed by a flight of stairs. The jagati helps in allowing the devotees to make a ritualistic clockwise circumambulation around the shrine. The three vimanas (towers) are located towards the back of the platform. A flight of steps from the jagati lead you to a rectangular mantapa (a central room) from where the three shrines are accessible. One directly in the front, while the other two to the left and right.
The exterior walls are adorned with detailed sculptures of cavalry, elephants and deities. It also has a few panels dedicated to Kama Sutra. The south side wall depicts scenes from Ramayana, the north one shows Mahabharata while the rear panel is dedicated to lord Krishna. Other sculptures depict the material comfort of that age, including members of the royal family riding decorated chariots, commoners and soldiers riding horses, camel drawn vehicles, musicians, dancers, hunters with bows and arrows along with dogs on a hunting trip. Intricate carvings of jewelry such as necklaces, pendants, rings, and women sporting hairstyles which were in vogue during that era are seen abundantly.
One of the other striking feature is sculptures of Vishnu avatars including Narasimha and Brahma on the outer walls below the vimanas.
When you visit such places, it is important to know the history behind the place and what it has to offer. India has a rich culture and heritage. Temples, apart from being places where people pray, offer a huge insight from a historical point of view. Unless you study the history behind the place before you visit, it will just be another monument rich in carvings which would mean nothing to a common man. Another such historical place is the UNESCO world heritage site of Hampi.
Best time to visit
Definitely winter, after October through to march. Summers can be a bit painful since the stone structures heat up.
Accommodation
The best suggestion I can offer is to stay in Mysore and hire a cab to travel to and fro unless you have your own mode of transport.
Food
None, unless you consider chips and soft drinks as food. Not sure if things have changed in recent times, and a few eateries have popped up.
Washroom facility
Available and pretty decent.
For photographers
Best lenses to carry – a wide angle, and one wide aperture prime to capture details. Tripods and flashes are not allowed, carry ample memory if you are a shutterbug who likes going trigger-happy.
If you are a spiritual person, you should absolutely have the Namdroling Monastery or the Tibetan golden temple in your bucket list. Keep traveling!
